The cam synchro will get jammed down inside the ear and will not release The aftermarket synchros are not machined well enough, they can get hung up inside the aluminum guide that sticks out from your engine block that holds the top of the oil pump driveshaft in place. I have had this happen a few times with the OHV engine Just for educational info, I added a link for an article on how to set this style synch up when the engine is out (I know your engine isn't out): Hopefully that's where the issue is, because the next possibility is down where it connects to the oil pump via a shaft (second picture). PB Blaster (Penetrating Oil) and some heat shouldn't hurt, as well as a lil' left to right turning of the body as well. With regards to it being stuck in the block, and knowing the history of it being a "beach" suv, my guess is that it has corrosion from salt water right at the sealing/mounting surface of the top body where the O-Ring is, or at the next circular mounting surface which is under the first section, or a combination of the two. View attachment posted that pic because I knew you had a 1995 OHV Explorer- and they have the "old style" Cam Synch with the windowĪs far as the difference on where the mark is from the repair manual to the actual synchro, I can't tell you (1/4 vs 1/2)īUT you should be concerned with regards to getting the new one in, matching how the old one came out - that's the bottom line here. Link: Ford Ranger 4.0L Camshaft Sensor (CMP) Link: Ford Ranger 4.0L Camshaft Sensor saying since there is no mention of it in your posting.
Third: The hold down bolt will not fall on the floor - and it's metric threadedīorrowed Pic Below from The Ranger Station. There are LOTS of places for those parts to hide within the Ex., and your FORD dealer won't have them on the shelf.
Second: Consider this, if you choose not to remove the hood, and you drop the "hold down bolt" or "hold down fork" you've now entered a whole 'nuther world of hurt.
It's usually covered in oil and grime - taken all together visibility is a nightmare, especially if you haven't removed the hood (just 4 bolts) for this repair.įirst: I highly suggest removing the hood for this because it makes this repair MUCH easier (hood is Aluminium and weighs maybe 25 lbs). This part is easily missed, since it's so far back towards the firewall, and under the overhang of the intake manifold. Saying since there is no mention of it in your posting.īefore trying to pull/jerk upwards on the camshaft synch, did you remove the "hold down fork" and corresponding "hold down bolt" that secures the camshaft synch assembly to the engine block?
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